Somló vineyards, north-western Hungary

Gruner Veltliner has been bubbling under the radar now for the best part of a decade, without ever really gaining the recognition and commercial success it’s been tipped for. This classic Austrian white is dry and lean with enticing herbal aromas and a slight peppery character.

Across the border it’s Hungarian equivalent is probably found in the dry Furmint wines of Tokaji. Both are well worth checking out if you’re looking to move on from Sancerre.

You should also poke around on these shelves if Biodynamic or Feral wine is your thing, with the wines of Meinklang in the Burgenland being justly famous for their innovation and green credentials.


Especially notable is the Meinklang Konkret: One of the first “egg wines” we sold. It’s a biodynamic, wild yeast St Laurent, fermented in a concrete egg, so if you’re looking for something fashionable this ticks just about every box. If you are more concerned about what it actually tastes like, then imagine a really good, but weighty Burgundy. Sadly it comes in at just over thirty quid, but conveniently it is the single best wine I have ever drank alongside a traditional Christmas dinner.